A pleasant, winding
road leads east from Port aux Basques for about 30 miles, along the southern
coast of Newfoundland, past several small, picturesque towns, culminating at
the town of Rose Blanche. Although this
area has the reputation for stormy seas and numerous tales of terrible
shipwrecks on the rocky coast (as well as an epic story related to a dramatic
rescue of shipwreck victims by a heroic dog), on the particular day of our
visit, the skies were cloudless and the ocean a calm, deep dark blue. As with other areas of the province, each
town along this route has a hiking trail of some sort that visitors are
encouraged to follow to learn more about the area. Photographers would do well to seek out these
trails, as they often showcase the best that the villages have to offer in the
way of already dramatic scenery. Try not
to miss this area. It's not far from
Port aux Basques and the ferry, and between the green, rocky, treeless hills,
the wandering streams, ponds and bogs, the ocean vistas, and the village
trails, this is an action-packed place for a photographer.
At the end of the
road, lie the two adjacent towns of Rose Blanche and Harbor LeCou.
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| Harbour LeCou |
We came this way in part because I had
memories from an earlier jaunt to Rose Blanch in 1991. At that time the Newfoundland fishery was
still in operation and Rose Blanche was an active fishing village. The fishery closed in 1992, and the town has
seen a steady population decline of year-round residents. As with elsewhere in the province, compared
to 20 years prior, there are many fewer boats in use, and many more abandoned
ones. In my own humble opinion though,
Rose Blanche and the surrounding area is still one of the prettiest areas in
the western part of the island, with trim, well-kept houses, positioned along
crevices and gorges through the rocky hills leading to natural harbors along
the sea. The first time I saw it two
decades past, near twilight, with the lights twinkling in the houses perched
along the cliffs and channels, some of them literally cabled to the rocks to
keep them from blowing over in storms, it seemed surreal. During our recent visit, in the broad light
of day, it was more solid, but still intriguing.
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| An area of Rose Blanche |
Rose Blanche's official trail and tourist
attraction is its spectacular stone lighthouse and museum, which is open for
self-guided tours for a small fee. The
lighthouse dates from 1871 and was severely damaged in 1939 during a
storm. It was a ruin when I visited in
1991, but it has since been meticulously reconstructed with much loving care
and accuracy.
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| Rose Blanche Lighthouse |
A wonderful
panoramic view of Rose Blanche can be had from just behind the lighthouse,
looking down the channel that leads to the town. Other fine views can be had by exploring
around a bit in the town itself, but in the tight quarters of the narrow
streets it's easy to find yourself in someone's driveway or yard with no easy
way to turn around.
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| Rose Blanche |
In addition to the
remarkable lighthouse and picturesque town, another sight in the area is the
presence of an outport. Outports are
small villages that are located beyond the reach of Newfoundland's road system
and can only be accessed by boat or on foot.
Almost all of them are abandoned now, as is the village of Petites, the
outport near Rose Blanche, though at one time it was home to over 300 people. It is only accessible by boat (though
backpackers can bushwhack to it through 20+ miles of mountains and barrens
(here's an interesting account of hiking in, along with some photos of Petites: http://macdonald.typepad.com/cc/2006/05/backpacking_to_.html). It is clearly visible in a longer lens or
binoculars and there is a sign pointing it out near the start of the lighthouse
trail.
From Rose Blanche, those with more time can take a ferry that visits other isolated outports along the southern coast of the province, that are still inhabited.
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| The outport of Petites |
At this point in the
trip I had switched from my usual Canon DSLR gear to my small, micro
four-thirds Panasonic G3 due to a malfunction in my "walk-around"
Canon lens. My guess is that the wave
that crashed over me during the boat trip up Western Brook Pond had done damage
that took a few days to have an effect.
Everything on this page is taken with the G3 except the outport shot, above
which was taken with a 400mm (640mm equiv.)
The following day as we clanked across the entrance to the ferry, and parked next to an 18-wheeler, also bound for Nova Scotia, far to the southwest, I found myself already planning the next Newfoundland adventure. My most critical advice for travelers heading to The Rock, as the Newfoundlanders call their home: take absolutely as much time as you can. This is a huge place, and unless you plan to stay only in the capital city region, you will be driving hundreds of miles no matter what you do (and the roads are, in general, quite good, even in the rural areas.) We had 11 days to go up the peninsula and back, and we almost always found ourselves trying to cram as much into each day as possible, from early morning until late evening. We also weren't able to fit in even a single "down" day, and found ourselves sometimes eating dinner or doing laundry at 11:00 at night. And we really only scratched the surface of this marvelous, beautiful place. Have I mentioned that we only saw the western part of the province? The larger, more populated eastern side, as well as Labrador, will need to wait for another time. Photographers, be ready for rain, wind, salt and glare!
This post brings to an end the
"Edge of the Wild, Travels in Newfoundland" series.
Next time will be a visit to a vastly different place: Upstate New York's Adirondack Mountains in Autumn.
